Legends of the DanubeThe Story of the Kisfaludy and Hableány Paddle Steamers

The Story of the Kisfaludy Paddle Steamer

At the start of the 19th century, only sailboats and rowboats traversed the waters of Lake Balaton. Traveling around the lake was a slow and uncertain endeavor — people either bumped along poor-quality roads in carts or relied on lengthy detours using ferries to get from one village to another. This all changed with a groundbreaking initiative led by István Széchenyi, who recognized the untapped potential of steam-powered navigation on the lake. In 1846, together with Zala county nobleman Károly Hertelendy, he founded the Balaton Steamship Company.

Their first vessel was named after one of the great literary figures of the Hungarian reform era, the poet Sándor Kisfaludy, who had beautifully captured the lake’s atmosphere in his poem “A Balaton.” The construction began at the Óbuda Shipyard, where the wooden hull was built, then transported to the shores of Lake Balaton by horse-drawn wagons. The 40-horsepower steam engine was procured from England, with its parts shipped by sea to Hungary. Final assembly of the steamer took place in Balatonfüred.

On September 21, 1846 — István Széchenyi’s 55th birthday — the Kisfaludy was launched for the very first time. During its maiden voyage from Balatonfüred to Kenese, which lasted about an hour, it received such an enthusiastic welcome that even the secret police of the Viennese court took notice. In their reports, the peaceful celebration was painted as a suspicious political demonstration.

At the time, the Kisfaludy was more than just a technical innovation — it became a floating social salon. Its interior was envisioned by Széchenyi’s wife, Countess Crescence Seilern, and featured white-and-gold paneling, mahogany columns, and large mirrors that gave the space an elegant, refined atmosphere. The spacious deck offered a dining area, a small library, cushioned seating, and even heated cabins for cooler weather. At times, live music entertained guests on board.

Designed to carry over 200 passengers, the steamer quickly became a popular attraction among wealthier travelers. By spring 1847, it began operating as a scheduled passenger service. Though it mainly ran during the summer season, it significantly boosted tourism in the Balaton region — and over time, even the growing middle class could afford the pleasure of experiencing lake cruising on its deck.

A few years after its launch, the Kisfaludy took on an unexpected military role. In the mid-19th century, no railway existed along the southern shore of Lake Balaton, making the steamer the fastest means of transport in the region. During the Hungarian War of Independence in 1848–49, it wasn’t just tourists boarding the vessel — it also carried wounded soldiers, military dispatches, orders, and even weapons. The Austrian authorities quickly realized the ship’s strategic importance and issued an order for its destruction.

Thanks to the ingenuity of the ship’s captain at the time, Pál Bíró, those efforts were thwarted. During the day, the Kisfaludy was hidden in reed-covered bays along the shore, with the boiler shut down to avoid producing smoke. It was only allowed to sail at night. Local residents played a key role in helping the crew: they warned them whenever Austrian patrols approached.

The chase lasted for months, but the Austrians never managed to seize the steamer. After the war was lost, the Habsburg authorities confiscated the vessel and placed it under military supervision — but by 1850, it was allowed to resume regular passenger service.

The Kisfaludy went on to serve for another four decades on Lake Balaton. Over time, however, it became increasingly worn out, and with the expansion of the railway and the emergence of newer, more modern ships, it gradually lost its central role. In 1887, the steamer made its final voyage before being decommissioned and dismantled.

The Story of the Hableány Paddle Steamer

Two decades after the success of the Kisfaludy on Lake Balaton, in 1867, István Széchenyi’s son, Ödön Széchenyi — himself an enthusiastic supporter of navigation — set out to accomplish something truly ambitious: he planned to sail from Pest to Paris via the Danube and Europe’s inland waterways to attend the World Expo. Since no one had ever completed such a journey through Europe's rivers and canals, the project drew widespread attention. Ödön's goal was to prove the capabilities of Hungarian steam navigation and showcase Hungarian shipbuilding achievements at an international stage.

To realize this daring plan, he needed a vessel that was both durable and compact enough to navigate the narrowest canals and shallowest waters with ease. In 1866, based on the designs of Adolf Hörcher, the Hableány (“Mermaid”) was built to meet these exact requirements. The steamer measured just 20 meters in length, 3.66 meters in width, and had a draft of only 46 centimeters — perfectly suited for such a demanding route.

The Hableány set off from Pest on April 6, 1867, with Ödön Széchenyi himself at the helm. The crew consisted of just five people: Széchenyi as captain, a helmsman, an engineer, a stoker, and a cook. The journey spanned more than 2,000 kilometers and took 43 days to complete. They sailed down the Danube, crossed the Ludwig Canal, then continued along the Main–Rhine river system all the way to Strasbourg. From there, they navigated France’s inland waterways to reach the Marne River and finally the Seine, arriving on May 18, 1867.

Széchenyi’s bold expedition drew widespread media attention throughout Europe. His daring venture made headlines, and the steamer itself became one of the highlights of the Paris World Expo — even earning a gold medal in the machinery category. Upon arrival, the Hableány was greeted by none other than Jules Verne, who was so inspired by the story that it influenced his novel The Danube Pilot. The vessel also hosted Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie for a short river cruise. In recognition of Széchenyi’s extraordinary achievement, the emperor awarded him the French Legion of Honor, firmly securing his place in the history of European navigation.

After the expo, the Hableány did not return to Hungary. Széchenyi sold the ship to the renowned French photographer Félix Nadar. Like the Kisfaludy, the Hableány was also swept into the tides of history — during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, it was repurposed as a military steamer. At the war’s end, the victorious Prussians seized the vessel as a war trophy and used it for passenger transport on the Rhine. In 1874, its journey came to a tragic end when a boiler explosion caused the ship to sink.

Paddle Steamers in the Present Day

The adventurous journeys of the Kisfaludy and Hableány are powerful reflections of 19th-century Hungarian innovation and the international success of steam navigation. The Kisfaludy was the first to introduce regular steamship service on Lake Balaton, while the Hableány proved that a Hungarian-built vessel could conquer Europe’s vast network of rivers and canals. Both steamers became symbols of Reform Era ingenuity and national pride.

Fortunately, their stories didn’t end in the history books. In the 21st century, both ships were brought back to life — in modernized, but historically faithful form. The Hableány was rebuilt in 2007, followed in 2014 by the Kisfaludy's reconstruction in a period-accurate form based on old photographs and blueprints. While their operation now meets modern technical standards, their appearance captures the spirit and elegance of reform-era Hungary.